That’ll do, pig.

“Do you want to hear something truly perverse?” asked the chef. I did. Jonny is a mercurial gastronome who delights in language almost as much as he relishes food, and I knew that when he said “perverse” he really meant it. In France, he said, there is a certain songbird: the ortolan. It is about

Don’t touch me on my culture

Chinese people and the Voortrekker Monument. It’s not an association you’d usually make and yet, by all accounts, Chinese tourists are flocking there. There is some debate over why this is happening. Some attribute it to unimaginative tour operators eager to show visitors the world’s biggest wheelie bin. Others defend it as a destination, saying